How is CCTV wiring run in a house?
Installation & process

How is CCTV wiring run in a house?

The cable types and the routes installers use to keep it hidden.

The short answer

CCTV wiring is run from each camera back to a central recorder, routed as invisibly as possible through the building's structure. Older or HD systems use coaxial cable; modern IP systems use network (Cat5e/Cat6) cable, which can carry both video and power on one cable via Power over Ethernet (PoE). Installers route these cables through the loft, down wall cavities, under floorboards, and along existing service runs, drilling neat entry points behind each camera and making good afterwards. The cables converge at the recorder, which sits centrally and connects to power and the home network. Done well, the cabling is concealed and hard for an intruder to cut. This is a general UK overview.

The cabling is the part of a wired CCTV install that takes the most skill, because it has to be both reliable and hidden. This is a general overview of the UK approach.

CCTV cabling at a glance

The cable types used

The cable an installer uses depends on the system. Coaxial cable is the traditional choice, used by older analogue systems and by modern HD-over-coax systems that send high-definition video down the same type of cable. With coax, video runs on the cable and power is usually supplied separately — either a combined 'shotgun' cable that bundles a coax and a power core together, or a separate power run. Coax remains common in domestic CCTV because it's robust and works over long runs without the video degrading.

The modern alternative is network cable — Cat5e or Cat6 — used by IP camera systems. Its big advantage is Power over Ethernet (PoE): a single network cable carries both the video data and the power to the camera, so there's only one cable to run per camera and no separate power supply at the camera end. This makes IP/PoE cabling cleaner and simpler to install, and it connects to a network video recorder (NVR) or a PoE switch. IP systems also tend to support higher resolutions, which is why much new domestic CCTV is now IP-based.

Whichever type is used, the principle is the same: one cable run from each camera to the central recorder. The installer chooses a cable rated for the job and the run length, uses outdoor-grade cable where it's exposed to weather, and terminates it correctly with the right connectors. Good cable, properly terminated, is part of what makes a system reliable — poor or undersized cable, or sloppy connections, cause the dropouts and image problems that plague cheap installs.

Cable typeUsed byPower
Coaxial (or 'shotgun')analogue / HD-over-coaxseparate or bundled power core
Cat5e / Cat6 networkIP camera systemsPoE — power on the same cable
Outdoor-grade cableexposed runsweather-resistant sheathing

Indicative UK guidance, not exhaustive. Sources: Checkatrade CCTV guide and industry cabling practice.

How the cable is routed through the house

The art of a good wired install is getting the cable from each camera to the recorder without it being seen or easily reached. Installers exploit the building's existing voids and routes. The loft is the workhorse: cables from upstairs cameras and from the eaves drop into or run across the loft space, where they can travel freely above the ceilings to a central drop-down point near the recorder. From the loft, a cable can be dropped down an internal wall cavity to reach the recorder or a lower camera, fished down behind plasterboard or within the cavity of an external wall.

Downstairs, cables are often run under suspended floors — lifting a floorboard to feed cable beneath the ground floor and up to where it's needed — or along existing service routes where other cables and pipes already run. Where a cable has to cross a room or can't be fully concealed, the installer may use discreet trunking or conduit painted to match, keeping it tidy and protected. Behind each camera, a small hole is drilled through the wall so the cable enters directly behind the unit, leaving no visible cable on the outside face — the entry is then sealed against weather.

The cables all converge at the recorder, which is sited centrally to keep runs short and, importantly, somewhere secure and out of sight so it can't be found and stolen with the footage. There the camera cables are terminated and connected — into the back of a DVR/NVR for coax, or into the NVR or a PoE switch for network cable. The recorder is connected to mains power (via an existing socket or one added by an electrician) and usually to the home router for remote viewing. With every cable home-run to this point, the wiring is complete and the system can be powered up and configured.

Worth knowing: concealed cabling isn't just tidier — it's more secure. A cable run inside the structure can't be cut by an intruder the way a surface-run cable can, so a hidden install protects the system as well as the look of the house.

What makes cabling harder or easier

How straightforward the cabling is depends heavily on the property. A house with good loft access, suspended timber floors and cavity walls is relatively easy to cable, because the installer has voids to route through. A property with solid masonry walls, a concrete ground floor, no loft access, or rooms below others with no void between is much harder — the installer may have to use more surface trunking, take longer routes, or work creatively to keep cables hidden. This is why the same system can take very different amounts of time to wire in different homes, and why awkward properties cost more in labour.

The distance and the number of cameras also matter. Long runs to a far corner of the house, an outbuilding or the end of a garden take more cable and more effort, and very long runs need attention to signal quality (coax and network cable both have practical length limits before video degrades or PoE power drops). Each additional camera is another full run to plan and route, so an eight-camera system involves far more cabling work than a two-camera one, even on an easy property.

For a homeowner, the practical takeaways are straightforward. The cabling is the most labour-intensive part of a wired install, so the property's structure is a big driver of cost and time. Planning camera positions with an eye to short, easy cable routes keeps the job efficient. Doing the work during a renovation, when floors are up and walls are open, makes wired cabling far easier and neater. And if running concealed cable through your particular house looks difficult or expensive, that's exactly the situation where a wireless system — which avoids most of the cabling — becomes the more practical choice.

Frequently asked questions

What cable is used for CCTV?

Older and HD-over-coax systems use coaxial cable, often a 'shotgun' type that bundles the coax with a power core. Modern IP systems use network cable (Cat5e or Cat6), which can carry both video and power on one cable using Power over Ethernet (PoE), making the cabling cleaner.

How do installers hide the CCTV cables?

They route cables through the building's voids — the loft, wall cavities, under suspended floors and along existing service runs — and drill a neat hole behind each camera so the cable enters directly behind it. Where concealment isn't possible, discreet trunking is used. Concealed cable is also more secure, as it can't easily be cut.

Why is cabling harder in some houses than others?

It depends on the structure. Lofts, cavity walls and suspended timber floors give installers voids to route through, making cabling easier. Solid masonry walls, concrete floors or no loft access make it much harder, requiring longer routes or surface trunking. This is why awkward properties take longer and cost more to wire.

Sources & further reading

Figures on this page are typical UK ranges drawn from published sources and depend on your specific property and system. They are guidance, not a quotation.